The road – well track of sorts – that leads down to the floor of the crater is an adventure in and of itself. I was going to stand and enjoy the views, but it’s so bumpy and steep that I have to admit defeat and sit down for most of the way. I’m back on my feet as soon as we make it to more level and smooth surfaces, though.

This is safari heaven and it is sometimes difficult to know which animal or bird to look at first. Let’s settle for animals for now and let the birds intrude as they might. Wildebeest, impala, Thompson’s gazelle, Grant’s gazelle and buffalo are everywhere. There are hippos in and near the lakes and swamps, often accompanied by flocks of white cattle egrets.

The shallow water of the lake has flamingos, storks, cranes and pelicans in vast flocks and there are more herds of buffalo and zebra. I honestly don’t know where to point my camera next. Thankfully, that’s what Ian is here for.

“Centre Left,” He calls from the front as we pull to a halt. “Black rhino. A female with a calf, I think.”

They’re keeping their distance. There is a very strict no-deviation rule down here and there are vast open spaces between the various tracks that we must keep out of. About 300m away, towards the middle of one of these spaces I can clearly see the rhino and her youngster, even with the tall grasses.

It's right at the limit of what I can really manage with the lens that I have, but I might never get another chance to even see such a rare and imposing creature. The problem is that, even though I have image stabilization built in to the camera, I just can’t keep the thing steady enough to get a blur-free shot. Luckily, I have boyfriend who’s a sharp-shooter.

“Here,” I tell him as I lift the camera strap over my head. “You’re steadier than me. Half-press to focus then fire away.”

When we finally stop at the picnic area for lunch, I can tell right away that he’s better at the camera thing than I am. I’m not quitting, but I’ll be happy to let him do the long-distance stuff from now on.

“Protect your food from the kites,” Ian warns us as Sue opens the door to get out. “Either that or eat your lunch in here. Toilets are up in that block on the right.”

Sure enough, the kites are swooping down on several unsuspecting victims across the site, with much cursing and waving of fists. They’re reminding me of the seagulls at home, but clearly, they are much more heavily armed and therefore even more brazen.

“Yeah, we’ll eat in here,” I tell Ian with a grin. “I’m all out of adventure and action for this trip.”

“Yeah, me too.” Ian sighs. “Are you both making progress?”

“We’re getting there. It takes time to process the emotional stuff, but the physical is already feeling much better. How about you?”

“Much the same, only it’s all mental for me. Still a bit stunned, but I have work to keep my mind occupied. I’m thinking I might need to talk to a professional when we get back home, but all-in-all, not too bad, considering.”

“I think we’re doing the right thing. This is what we are here for and keeping on schedule is helping me immensely. Thank you for telling everyone what happened last night. I think it helped me as much as anyone to hear the story told right through.” Ian looks suitably embarrassed by my praise, but he nods his head in acceptance.

“Me too,” Sue adds from the front row. “I was already a bit out of my comfort zone, just coming on the trip. My friends back home won’t believe me when I tell them we were held up by robbers. Highwaymen sounds a bit more romantic, perhaps.”

“You’re right,” Nicki adds, “But we’ll be drinking on the story for months down at the social club.”

“Are you both going to get through this?” I ask with genuine concern. They have both been pretty quiet for the last few hours and much more so than Mary or Andrea.

“Yes,” Sue tells us all. “We were so worried about you yesterday that we didn’t have time to think about everything else. I’ve never heard a gun being fired before. Action movies don’t prepare you for the reality of something like this.”

“Yeah, sorry about that,” Brian tells her. “Didn’t really have much choice about the gun, I’m afraid.”

“Oh, no, Brian. You have nothing to apologise for,” Sue tells him. “You didn’t just save Mark, you saved all of us. I don’t know if they would have stopped at robbery, or something worse.”

“I’m not sure I would have tried to stop them taking my camera, though, Mark.” Nicki Tells me ruefully. “Possessions can be replaced.”

“Oh, I know that,” I tell her solemnly. “It wasn’t the camera that worried me, it was the memory cards. We’ve already seen so much and I didn’t want to lose those photos. Some things simply can’t be replaced.”

“And, on reflection?” Brian asks, rubbing a fingertip gently down the side of my slowly dissipating lump.

“I was an idiot.”

 

Soon enough, lunch, which doesn’t seem to be getting any better, is over and we’re off again for another circuit of the crater. There are still plenty of tracks to be driven and plenty more to be seen.

The crater floor is big enough that, for the most part, you don’t get a sense of being enclosed. Some of the tracks, however, come pretty close to the wall of the crater and then the whole thing just seems to loom above you, stretching endlessly into the blue of the sky that suddenly appears so far away.

I’m trying my best to keep track of as many birds as possible, but down here in the long grasses, so many of them are small, brown and skulking that it’s a real effort.

Up ahead of us, about half a kilometre along the current track, there appears to be a major traffic jam. Ian is quick to point out that this can mean only one thing, “Lions. Not much else gets everyone to stop.”

Apparently, the crater has one of the highest concentrations of lions in any area in the world. We were more likely to see some here than just about anywhere else in Africa. There are also rules of etiquette that apply in situations of high traffic like this. What at first appears to be a log-jam of safari trucks turns out to be slowly moving along, in both directions at the same time.

It takes almost ten minutes for us to get our turn, but the wait is more than worth the result. The pride is resting, very close to the roadside, apparently after an early morning kill. The bare ribcage and skin of a buffalo is testament to their prodigious appetites, but now they are relaxed and drowsy.

Everything I had previously thought about the size and power of the two females that we had seen in Nairobi is blown away by the size, power and charisma of the big male here. His mane, although dark chestnut, isn’t quite as dark as I expected, but it frames him gloriously.

When he yawns, revealing massive fangs and a rasp-like tongue, it’s enthralling. I could stand here for hours, but we only get a couple of minutes before making space for the next vehicle in line. His droop-lidded gaze seems to follow us as we move on with a calculated disinterest that’s a little disconcerting.

“Didn’t think they’d be too far away,” Ian calls. “Spotted hyaena just off the track on the right.”

“Are they waiting for whatever the lions leave,” Mary asks.

“Yes,” Ian tells us. “They’ll start on the bones and skin as soon as they get the chance. The pride is probably too big and strong to be chased off the kill by just these three, but they might try nevertheless.”

“Not the most attractive creature, are they?” Brian suggests.

“No, but they are very efficient and pretty successful,” Ian suggests.

For my part, they’re mostly another tick to add to my list of big mammals and big carnivores. Even so, I do think that they have a certain charm of their own. I can see why they are sometimes called ‘laughing hyaenas’, they do have that look to their faces that makes them appear to be smiling all the time.

There might be thousands of large mammals down here, but the space is so vast that there are times when there is nothing of note to be seen. Taking pictures of buffalo, hippo or zebra from different angles is great, but eventually, even that wears a little thin. Add in the heat and my slowly returning headache and I’m more than ready for a sit down and a snooze.

It's not Ian that wakes me this time, but Andrea. “Ian, what sort of cat is that?” she asks from above my head.

“Oh, wow!” Ian manages. “It’s a serval. Isn’t he fantastic!”

It’s going to be too far from me and I now have an alternative. Brian takes the camera once more with a grin and manages to get a couple of excellent shots of a cat species that I hadn’t even heard of.

“He’s so elegant,” I whisper. “Such long legs and a delicate step. He’s beautiful.” I’m so used to cats with proportionally long tails – well, and ones without, considering where I’m from – that to see one with a relatively short tail is a bit jarring.

“Just think,” Brian tells me when he finally hands the camera back. “If we hadn’t spent much of yesterday adventuring, we wouldn’t be here right now to see this.”

“Fair point,” I tell him. “It is just about worth the headache that I’ve now got again. Now no one is getting a hold of my camera, guns or not.”

“You do see them,” Ian tells us all. “They are allegedly quite common down here in the crater, but to get one out in the open and to get a photo is really special.”

“So a leopard next?” I ask him with a very serious expression.

“I thought that we’d taught you to temper your expectations?” Ian asks me.

“Well, I’m pretty much getting everything I wish for at the moment, so I’m prepared to go for it 100%.”

“Do you know what? I’m not even going to debate it with you at this point. You’re absolutely right. We did say something about luck balancing out. After yesterday, I’m more than happy to agree with us getting nothing but good luck from here on out.”

“Yep! I’ve now paid for this twice. Once with money and then again with bruises. Bring on all the cats!”

“Are you sure that you’ve not got a concussion?” Brian asks with what sounds like genuine concern. “You’re acting a little hyper today.”

“No, I’m fine. Maybe coming to realize just how pissed off I was yesterday when I woke up. I hate to say this, but it’s a good job you killed those bastards. I’d be wanting to do it myself otherwise.”

“Yes, okay.” Brian tells me before turning to Ian and Joshua in the front. “Isn’t it time for us to be heading towards the lodge?”

Ian seems to catch on right away. Actually, I do as well, but I’m content to let it slide as it is only Brian’s genuine concern for me that’s making him take control.

“Yes, we’ll circle around the northern tracks and head out,” Ian tells everyone as Joshua gets us back underway.

I’d be the first to admit that, for the next few minutes at least, I’m what can only be described as a little sulky. Deep down I know that Brian is right and I’ve gotten a little over-tired or over-excited – more like a toddler than an adult. I’m aware enough, no matter how tired, to know to say nothing and go with the flow.

Once again, I’m almost asleep when the vehicle lurches to a halt and I’m nudged by Brian standing beside me. I’m just about to complain that I’ve had enough for one day when I realize why we’ve stopped.

One thing that we’ve seen plenty of on the trip so far are elephants, but these are something truly special. This is a group of bulls, keeping to themselves and away from the usual family groups.

Not only are they genuinely massive, but they are carrying some of the biggest tusks that I’m ever likely to see. There’s so much that can be said about the pure evil that the ivory trade has wrought – for millennia – but the truth is that the best place for ivory is still attached to an elephant. Whatever little trinket someone possesses, however well carved or decorated, it can’t hold a candle to seeing this much grace and power walking slowly across a grassy plain.

I think everyone knew what was coming, because there’s a murmur of approval as I collapse back into my seat and let the tears flow. Sooner or later, the events of the last day or so were going to catch up to me in some spectacular way. Now is that time and all I can do is let it all pour out while Brian wraps his arms around me and Joshua drives us slowly and carefully up out of the crater and into our lodge.