We had to find some way to break up the routine and we enquired of Dixon the possibility to drive south to see Lugard Falls. It’s a long drive south through the park and then through a narrow pass in the Plateau to meet the river and cross to stop and see the falls where the Athi River has merged and turned into the Galana.

Dixon returned from the KWS offices with the news that such a trip was indeed possible, but we would have to take a couple of guards with us. So, the very next morning, we picked up two uniformed men with AK47s and set off south, across the Tiva River and up onto the plains. The road south passes through an empty area of thousands of square kilometres with just the road and a distant power line to be seen and relentless dense woodland and brush, following the line of the Yatta Plateau

Wildlife was scarce until we approached the pass, where we were lucky to see a gerenuk in the distance. Since this visit to the falls, there has been a bridge built across the river, but when we were there you had to drive along a long causeway/ford and the river could only be crossed when relatively low.

The falls themselves barely live up to the name. When the water levels are low, they are, as you can see, far from impressive. I can imagine that, when the Galana is in full flood, they are a roiling raging torrent, but not on this day. Still there were plenty of birds to be seen and the pink granite formations made interesting photographic targets.

Dixon suggested we go for a walk. “We’re not allowed to walk in the National Park,” I said.

Dixon looked at me and smiled “You are if you have KWS guards with you! I’ll see you at the overlook car park later.” Well, this was an unexpected surprise and we were soon on our way down the rocky shore below the falls and onto the sandy banks of the river. There were herons and cranes on the banks and lots of pretty big crocodiles in the water near the falls, then many hippos in the water further down.

It isn’t a long walk, maybe a couple of kilometres or so, but the going is sometimes difficult and the ground is rocky and rough. We had plenty of time and took advantage. At last we saw Dixon waving from the car park high above and many other tourists along the railings looking down on the river and us.

We had to take a roundabout route to gain the summit and be reunited with our driver and vehicle. We were greeted by the site of Dixon – barely 1.5 metres tall in his army boots – surrounded by half a dozen other drivers in a heated conversation. We just moved to our Land rover and waited patiently, it seemed better to not get involved. Of course, once Dixon had returned to his seat we were keen to find out what the problem was.

Apparently, the other drivers were complaining because we had ruined the view for their clients and that we had no right to walk in the park and get in the way. Dixon had held his ground with style. He pointed out that anyone could walk in the park. They just had to hire the KWS rangers like we had.

In a way I could understand their situation. They were being paid to show their clients the safari experience, and many of their clients would have only a few days to see as much as they could. I would have been more sympathetic, I think, if there had actually been anything to see on the day.

Sadly, we had a long drive back and couldn’t spend more time in the area. We were close to where we had entered the park on the way to Voi a week before so we knew there was much more wildlife around if we had had the time to get out and find it. Of course, the orphans and their friends would be expecting us for the lock up, so we decided to head back right after our packed lunch had been consumed next to the causeway.

There had been tantalizing reports around Ithumba of sightings of Painted Wolves (African Wild Dogs, Hunting Dogs, Painted Dogs – call them what you will, but I like my name best). Fred and Elizabeth had been lucky enough to see them elsewhere, even just a few days before they picked me up at the airport in Tanzania. I’d seen them on the TV and knew of their reputations as the most successful hunters on the planet, but had, up to this time, not had much hope of ever seeing them in the wild.

As a result, I was totally unprepared when, on our way back from helping to let the orphans out just as dawn broke on a fine morning, we came across some agitated baboons on the road as we headed for camp and breakfast. The reason for the agitation soon became clear when the members of a small painted wolf family came into view chasing the baboons. My lack of preparation – or perhaps anticipation – was a serious problem. From that morning, I have wonderful photos of elephants – both orphans and wild adults – taken with my short telephoto zoom. However, I only have about a dozen photos of the wolves and they are just too far away for comfort with such a short lens.

They stayed in sight only for a minute or so, they moved and they chased, hardly standing still for a moment and the photos I did get are a little disappointing. Although elated at the sighting, I was really quite depressed at what I perceived as my failure to capture something I would never get another chance to see. It required a good talking to by Fred to re-assure me that I’d done the best that I could and there was always the chance that we’d see them again somewhere and sometime else. They now have to be something firmly on my list of “must see again” animals.