The drive northwards from Haiderpur into the foothills and the edge of Corbett National Park is nominally a fairly short one. To make good use of the time available, we opt to spend the morning out in the forests to the east of the Ganges, just downstream from the Haiderpur barrage. It’s a very fruitful morning, with many different birds to be seen and some spectacular vistas through the dense morning mists. It’s moody and atmospheric, reminding me in some ways of our own local Ballaugh Curraghs, except on a much grander scale.

Many of the trees are ones that have been planted for timber, including some truly impressive white eucalyptus that are easily more than 30m tall.

The decision having already been made that we’re not risking breakfast at the “hotel”, we check out as quickly as “Basil” and his cohort can manage and head north. Once again, the traffic is truly terrible, only now we are on narrower country roads and the potential for an accident is multiplied by an order of magnitude.

Every time I get to that point where I think that an impact is inevitable, Sunil manages to somehow make it not happen. From the seats in the back, it is pretty hard to tell just how close we get, but it might regularly be measured in millimetres rather than centimetres. It’s also a good thing that different vehicles have side mirrors at different heights or there wouldn’t be any.

At times progress is hampered by trucks loaded with fodder or recently-harvested sugar cane that overhangs the vehicle’s bed by more than a meter to each side, causing them to drive right in the middle of a two-lane road to avoid the trees on either side. Still, Sunil manages to pass these whenever the opportunity arises and slow but steady progress is made.

It's after two before we can finally stop to eat, JP choosing a nice-looking restaurant and helping to pick some items from the comprehensive menu. The food is excellent and there’s even an ice-cold beer to wash it down. For some reason, it’s Corona, though I’ve no idea what a Mexican beer is doing in Northern India.

The change in the landscape seems to creep up on you and comes with a suddenness that’s quite jarring. One moment you are driving across the vast expanse of the Gangetic plains and the next there are hills. Gentle at first, to be sure, but inexorable. Before you know it, you are driving along the edge of the National Park and the signs on the road warn of tigers crossing instead of cows or deer.

Our small overnight stop is just off the main road, dropping down onto the banks of the river. We have comfortable rooms with good beds and functional plumbing. The air is noticeably cooler, despite the only slight increase in latitude and altitude. We have the last of our beer with dinner, now looking forward to six nights with just water or the occasional soft drink.

Early to bed means early to rise for the drive to our gate and then the almost two-hour drive deep into the Dhikala sector of the park and the guest hose that is to be our home for three nights.